The Caribbean's rhythm is floating into your ears, surrounded by colours and food, salsa music sweeps you off your feet. You're in the Crown Jewel of the Colombian coast, Cartagena
Where to Stay in Cartagena de Indias
On a budget
If you're a solo traveller on a budget I suggest you book to stay at the Selina Hostel, a travellers party oasis on the edge of the Old City, with layers of indoor balconies covered in hanging plants, a rooftop bar and pool and PLENTY of Instagram opportunities, it's so easy to meet plenty of like-minded people.
There's something about meeting people from all over the world in a foreign place, making memories you'll remember forever for one or two days/nights, and saying goodbyes knowing you'll probably never see each other again as you take transport in opposite directions, ready to do it all again in the next city you visit.
Selina have a reputation for being a party hostel but
you'll find cosy beanbags to enjoy if you're needing some time out. The staff
are so friendly and will point you in all the right directions of the city.
Link to the website here: https://whatis.selina.com/
If you’ve a little more cash to splash and looking more romantic couples getaway vibe check out the Hotel don Pedro de Heredia https://www.booking.com/hotel/co/don-pedro-de-heredia.en-gb.html, which is a lovely 4 star hotel, further in the Old City, with a stunning pool courtyard surrounded by greenery.
What to do in Cartagena des Indias
Day 1: Parakeet Eggs, Cabanas and Cocktails
Breakfast
Wake up early! After all, you only have 48 Hours in Cartagena and there's lots to see! It's already warming up so make sure you pack a bottle of water.
Take a stroll around the Old City and stop in literally any cafe for some "Huevos Pericos", typically served with an "Arepa con Queso", this is the perfect breakfast for your first morning in Cartagena. With plenty of protein it will fill you up and keep you going all day. Pair with some fruit to add some sugary goodness and a black single-origin Colombian coffee (the best in the world).
It's no wonder that 'Huevos Pericos' are named as they are (it translates to 'Parakeet Eggs'!) as, much like the rest of Colombia, they're so colourful.. the dish is:
Colombian style Scrambled Eggs, cooked with tomatoes and spring onions.
Writing this blog throughout the week inspired me to recreate them at home... take a look at the results.
After breakfast just have a dawdle back to the hostel, get lost in the old city as it wakes up and take in the fresh salty morning air. The streets are still fairly quiet in the morning, with a few vendors wandering about but most shops are open and it's a really relaxed vibe.
Beach
Grab your swimsuit because we’re going to the beach (and not just any beach).
Book a taxi to Casillogrande Port and jump in a boat to Isla Tierra Bomba, which is a short (10-15min) but exciting boat ride out and has an incredible view of the skyscrapers of Cartagena’s built up District.
Grab a Cabana on the beach, buy yourself a cocktail and RELAX.
Lunch
Generally, with the heat I don't always feel too hungry so lunchtime for me wasn't too extravagant. I had Plantain Bowls with Guacamole, Sour Cream, Cheese and Salsa from the Bomba Beach Club and well...
Dinner
Head to La Cevicheria in the Old City for... you guessed it... Ceviche!
Ceviche is a classic South American seafood dish and although it originates from Peru it is served all over the continent. It's made from fresh, raw fish cured in lemon or lime juice and seasoned with onions, coriander and chillies. The name originated from the Quechuan 'Siwichi' which means fresh fish and it's DELICOUS. The restaurant has an extensive menu from seafood platters, whole lobsters to avocado salads and sides. It's definitely a must-do when visiting Cartagena and has been visited by world renowned chef, Anthony Bourdain.
Drinks
Once you've finished your meal head to Cafe Del Mar to catch the sunset with a final cocktail. They have live music and Salsa dancing regularly kicks off! I found a table on the edge of the city wall to enjoy the views as the sun painted the sky orange and pink. It was a perfect end to my perfect first day in Cartagena and I couldn't wait for the rest of the trip.
Day 2: Real Colombia
So we spent yesterday relaxing, soaking in the calm Colombian atmosphere and lulling ourselves into a false sense of quiet… today prepare to face the complete opposite! It’s time to get stuck into the food, colour and music of Colombia, it’s time to meet the amazing people who make the country so colourful and it’s time to bring your walls down. Embrace every sight, sound and smells and enjoy the whirlwind way of life that exists across the country.
If you are travelling alone I 100% recommend finding a well-reviewed tour guide/group to follow today. This way you won’t get lost, you don't need to figure out your own way and you’ll get to know more about the city and you’ll see it all from a locals’ point of view! Tours aren’t too expensive and usually; include transport as well as your guide - sometimes a little food is thrown in! Today you’re looking for one that takes you to the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas and the Mercado Bazurto. Both historical but one a lot more hectic than the other!
History - Castillo de San Filipe
1810 Colombia gained its freedom from Spain and the flag was created. It was here, at the Castillo de San Filipe, that I learned what the colours of the Colombian flag represented:
Yellow for the sun and for the gold of the country, for independence, justice and freedom.
Blue for the two seas (The Pacific and the Caribbean) that border Colombia and for loyalty.
Red for the bravery, honour and bloodshed that earned Colombia its freedom.
Authenticity - Mercado Bazurto
Mercado Bazurto isn’t your typical tourist market. It’s authentic and it’s not for the faint of heart, keep your belongings hidden or leave them at home but don’t let your nerves get the best of you, if you give into the maze of the market you’ll have a blast. You'll find local restaurant owners searching for the freshest products and produce sellers lazing amongst their fruit and veg.
Wind your way from section to section, it would be SO easy to get lost so this is where your guide comes in handy- I’m still not sure the people that work there don’t get lost from time to time. The place is massive. You can find here meat, fish, fruits and veg, hot sauces, beer, cooked food… piles of different fruits and veg take up the majority of the space and to work your way around them is a challenge.
Lunch
It's no wonder Anthony Bourdain visited Colombia twice, claiming "it's almost ludicrous that this place exists and noone wants to live here" - and I couldn't agree more. Just like the famous chef, stop off at 'Cecilia restaurant' in the Mercado. She serves up fresh fried fish with a range of sides and is one of the main hubs of the market.
Once you're back to the quieter but now bustling Cartagena old city, it's time for some retail therapy.
Shopping in Cartagena is magical, it is full to the brim with unique artisan products; Wiwa "Mochila" Bags, Tairona Gold Replicas, Emeralds ("Esmeraldas"), Indigenous Artwork, Shoes, Sweeties... the list goes on.
The main attraction in every shop for me was the gold replica jewellery, based on the gold jewellery created by the Ancient Taironas each piece is a must-have but unfortunately I couldn't take it all home with me! I picked up a few pieces including these magnificent frog earrings! Frogs are a symbol of fertility for indigenous peoples in Colombia.
Wander round the “Portos de los Dulces” for homemade sweets.
Las Palenqueras are now a Cultural Symbol of Cartagena. These women represent freedom, hard-work and resistance. However nowadays they venture into Cartagena for the tourists, they'll require a small fee for a photo but they're so cheerful and guaranteed to make you smile.
Easy peasy solution if you're wondering what to do with your evening in Cartagena.. find a few pals and book some seats on a Chiva bus!
These buses whizz you round the whole city with booze and mixers included, disco lights and an on-board band!
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